Fall Looks That Strike a Modern Silhouette – The Cut

Fall Looks That Strike a Modern Silhouette – The Cut

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Jil Sander, Christopher John Rogers, Oscar De La Renta

The spring 2022 collections brought us back to live shows this past September, and the best of the early fall collections, now out, are packed with a similar vitality. Who knows if the current spike in COVID cases in New York and around Europe will cause fashion houses to return again to digital formats for the major shows in February and March. It suddenly seems possible.

Fortunately, designers have become more proficient, and maybe more instinctual, working under constraints. As Laura Kim, who is co-creative director, with Fernando Garcia, at Oscar de la Renta, told me, “I have a smaller team but better relationships. I think as a team we’re stronger. We work less hours.” The payoff has been remarkably high sell-through numbers — that is, the amount of clothing sold at full price. At Oscar de la Renta, according to Kim, it’s around 90 percent, in contrast to a more typical 60 percent.

Oscar de la Renta prefall.
Photo: Courtesy of Oscar De La Renta

One driver, surely, is electric color; another is casual suiting. Garcia and Kim extended their spring idea of tailored mini dresses and jackets in fringe-hemmed checked tweeds, some paired with shorts. The designers mined the Oscar archive for a weird and wonderful print that looks like a ’70s-era preppy patchwork of madras and checks, and also for different floral prints, which were then regrouped together for a flowing chiffon dress, various knits, and a sharp tunic dress on a white ground, which they put with silver sequined pants. The brand has a history of being decorative and ultra-feminine, and not surprisingly it gets a lot of play in the new Sex and the City series. In the latest collection, there are taffeta bubble dresses, evening looks made of a solid crush of taffeta bows, and a white mini dress embroidered all over with eyelash-shaped sequins, its floral details nicely blurred out.

But, for me, the look that best conveyed the designers’ intentions, the mix of nonchalant-casual and decorative, was a perfectly ageless black suit with a slim, below-the-knee skirt. The whole thing was done in a kind of mock tweed woven from thin bias-cut strips of black lace, tulle, and crepe de chine. It’s probably weightless, too.

Christopher John Rogers
Photo: Courtesy of Christopher John Rogers

Christopher John Rogers had hoped to do an actual show this fall, but between COVID and the costs, he said, “it started to feel like …….

Source: https://www.thecut.com/2021/12/fashion-week-review-christopher-john-rogers-and-more.html

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